Last updated: October 2026
On the night of December 31, New Year’s Eve, we found ourselves at the airport of Nice, the capital of the French Riviera. We did not deliberately choose this day, and to be honest, we would prefer to land on a regular day, not a sabbatical. But this was the last flight to Nice in the winter season, so we caught it and hoped for the best.
We landed at ten at night, and when we arrived at the exit hall and waited for the bags to arrive, it became clear that, as we thought, on New Year’s Eve there was no public transport from the field at this hour. We took a taxi (45 euros) directly to the hotel in the center of Nice – BEST WESTERN NICE COSY HOTEL. The hotel has a great location, only a few minutes from the train station and the large car park adjacent to it and close to shops and kosher restaurants.
The receptionist greeted us kindly. He took the trouble and went up to our room on the last floor, where we discovered that we had been given a surprise: in the room (we ordered a mini-suite) there was champagne in an ice bucket, chocolates and a New Year’s greeting card. It’s a shame that for kosher reasons we could not enjoy …
After we recovered, we went out to the balcony to look around. We managed to see some fireworks (especially hear) before we collapsed to sleep.
Trip to the French Riviera - Day One - Nice
We dedicated the first day to the city of Nice, the capital of the Riviera. Armed with a map and directions from the receptionist, we headed out to find the nearest tram stop, located exactly two minutes from the hotel. We got off at the Opéra station, near Place Masséna, and from there walked toward Castle Hill, passing through the Old Town.
We wandered through the picturesque alleyways of the Old City. In the narrow streets, we saw beautifully decorated shops and elaborate window displays at a patisserie (bakery) and a chocolaterie (chocolate shop), featuring spectacular, mouth-watering creations. The Jewish Ghetto was also once located among these alleyways, the Rue Benoît-Bunico served as the center of the Ghetto starting in 1430.
After getting a bit “lost” in the maze of narrow streets, we eventually made our way toward the sea and found ourselves at a huge antiques market located right on the waterfront. It turns out this is the Cours Saleya flower market, which transforms into an antiques market on Mondays. On other days of the week, it’s a typical Provençal market, featuring flowers, fruit, soaps, and various other goods.
The stalls offered for sale works of art, beautiful tableware, vintage records, scarves, perfumes, and charming home accessories—items I would have bought quite a few of, had it not been for their high price and the fear that they might break on the way home.
After a pleasant stroll among the market stalls, we headed out to the seaside promenade. Even in the heart of winter, the beach in Nice was inviting and bathed in sunshine. Crowds of people filled the promenade and the city streets, after all, it was New Year’s Eve, and many took advantage of the day off to go out. All around us, we heard plenty of French, Italian, and even Chinese but not a single word of Hebrew.
We continued our walk and arrived at a sign a fixture in any self-respecting city that reads “I LOVE NICE,” and we took a photo next to it, just like everyone else.
And so, we found ourselves at the foot of Castle Hill Colline du Château. We had intended to take the elevator, but it was closed for the holiday, so we headed for the stairs leading up the hill.
Ultimately, I was glad we walked up, because while climbing the stairs (which wasn’t bad at all) we stopped to take in a stunning view of the city and discovered charming little spots along the way, such as small squares, carved benches, and balconies overlooking the scenery, things we would have missed had we taken the elevator.
The ascent of the hill follows a circular path, with staircases leading in several directions—some taking you to different spots on the hill. At times, we had to decide which way to go: toward the waterfall or toward the viewpoint? Ultimately, however, we managed to visit most of the sites on the hill, either on the way up or on the way back.
Tip: It is highly recommended to walk up the hill. The ascent is not difficult (unless you have mobility limitations), and there are plenty of spots to stop and rest along the way. This way, you can enjoy all the charming corners found on this vast hill.
We walked up the stairs along with many other people visiting the site, but it wasn’t a problem, the hill is huge, and there is room for everyone. Every now and then, we stopped to rest on a bench overlooking the view or at a lovely observation deck.
At the end of the climb, we reached the top of the hill, where there is a lovely park featuring nice playgrounds for children. A quaint tourist train—Un petit train à Nice passed by, it’s a great option for those who want to skip the stairs.
From above, a breathtaking view of the city of Nice unfolds, with the beaches and marinas of the Riviera stretching out beyond it. We gazed, unable to get our fill of such beauty.
After enjoying the stunning view, we continued to the next spot—towards the waterfall. It is an impressive artificial waterfall that flows from above, cascading through several levels.
From the waterfall, we continued down the hill, I knew there was a Jewish cemetery in the area and wanted to visit it. We followed the signs toward the cemetery, and at the very first turn, we came across a monument commemorating the Righteous Among the Nations. Right nearby, we found the Jewish cemetery, which we identified immediately by the Stars of David and the Hebrew inscriptions.
Unfortunately, the cemetery gate was locked, it turns out there are official opening hours. We peeked through the fence and spotted a memorial for those who fell in World War II. The other headstones were also elaborate and well-crafted, some even shaped like the Tablets of the Covenant.
We descended from the castle hill and continued walking through the waterfront and the market toward the beautiful Piazza Messina. It is a circular square in a classic European style, framed by red buildings, with a lovely fountain featuring a massive statue at its center.
Near the square, we spotted the Ferris wheel we had seen earlier from the viewpoint above. It turns out the wheel is part of a temporary amusement park set up for the holidays. (Later on, we would see Christmas-themed amusement parks in every town along the Riviera.)
The amusement park was decorated in an extraordinary and breathtakingly beautiful way. On a whim, we decided to hop on the Ferris wheel. After a long but fast-moving line, we stepped into a carriage and soared upward. The view from the top of the Ferris wheel was absolutely breathtaking!
After the Ferris wheel, we continued wandering around the elegant area and came across a branch of “Galeries Lafayette” the famous store from Paris. As it was getting dark, we took the tram back to the hotel. We were hungry and looked for a kosher restaurant (there is a post with full details on kosher restaurants in Nice).
We chose the restaurant “Le Leviathan,” located a 5-minute walk from the hotel. When we arrived, it was relatively empty, but the place soon began to fill up. The waiter asked if we had a reservation, and although we said no, he managed to find us a table. (Tip: Make a reservation in advance.)
We ordered our dishes and waited. in the meantime, we were served popcorn and a tiny side dish of carrot salad, and we took in the pleasant surroundings. We waited, and waited, and waited. After a 20-minute wait, we asked the people sitting next to us if it was always like this, and they replied that the wait was likely longer than usual because it was the day after New Year’s Eve.
Finally, the food arrived. My husband ordered salmon, which was nice, and I had pasta with mushrooms and cream, which was a bit salty. The prices are quite reasonable, even slightly cheaper than in Israel and tipping is not mandatory in France.
Day Two – Villa Ephrussi, Èze, and Monaco
After managing perfectly well using public transportation within the city on the first day, we wanted to visit the surrounding towns over the following days, something much more convenient to do by car. At 10:00 AM, we arrived at the Europcar agency located at the train station and picked up the vehicle we had booked in advance: a compact, manual-transmission Ford. As always, we had reserved the car through the Economy Car Rental website at an excellent price, but the service we received at the agency came as an unpleasant surprise.
After a long wait, we presented our rental agreement to the clerk, who claimed that a municipal tax needed to be added. We pointed out the clause in the contract stating that the price is all-inclusive, taxes and everything else. She held us up, repeatedly insisting that she “didn’t understand.” In the end, we received the vehicle at the agreed-upon price, but only after wasting time and being left with an unpleasant feeling. In short: stay away from Europcar.
The first destination planned for the day was Villa Ephrussi. We got into the car and drove to Cap Ferrat. Along the winding road, which meanders past green hills and blue shores, we stopped at one of the roadside viewpoints. We gazed, enchanted, at the panoramic view of the Riviera landscape. Once again, we were left speechless by the breathtaking blue vista.
Villa Ephrussi
After a short drive, we arrived at the villa. We parked in the driveway (parking on-site is free) and went inside.
Tip: You can purchase a combined ticket for Villa Ephrussi and the Exotic Gardens in the town of Èze. If you plan to visit both places, this will allow you to save on the entrance fee.
The beautiful pink villa is one of the wonderful gems of the Riviera. Baroness Béatrice Ephrussi de Rothschild (hailing from two Jewish families, the Ephrussis and the Rothschilds) fell in love with the beauty of the site and purchased the land to build her dream home there.
The creation of the gardens took seven years, while the construction of the villa lasted five. during this time, the finest architects carefully selected to cater to every one of Béatrice’s whims were commissioned. By 1912, the villa was complete, and the Baroness began staying there regularly during the winter months (dividing the rest of her time between Paris, Monaco, and Deauville).
The villa was designed in a Renaissance style and features furniture that once belonged to Queen Marie Antoinette, as well as other pieces in the Rococo style. On the first floor, there are elegant salons adorned with carpets, works of art, and German Meissen porcelain. The rooms also offer a glimpse into the Baroness’s opulent lifestyle, showcasing her collection of gowns and various accessories.
